|
Scott Doughty of Point Reyes Vineyards says
that Marin winemaking is in its infancy
compared to its brothers and sisters Napa
and Sonoma. Certainly before Prohibition
there was a fair amount, but Prohibition
changed many fortunes. Meanwhile almost
three million people visit Point Reyes
National Seashore every year, making it one
of the most popular natural attractions in
California. A lucky few of these many
visitors also learn of Marin’s winemaking
renaissance through the hospitality of a
little winery on Highway One. The story
begins with Scott’s stepmother, Sharon
Mendoza Doughty. As a third generation dairy
person she has owned and operated ranches
north of Point Reyes Station and out on the
road to the famous lighthouse. When her
first husband passed away, she decided to
make a go of it. “I idolize her,” Scott
says, “She does the work, knows the numbers
and is a lady.”
She went to business college, married
Scott’s father Steve Doughty and purchased
their inland ranch of 800 acres after the
sale of the lighthouse property to the
federal government. The new ranch included
the building where Firelight Candles was
started which they have since turned into a
Bed & Breakfast.
They decided to plant grapes, first and
foremost to raise the value of the land.
There was at one time talk of the government
buying more land in the area, and Steve
figured the land would have a higher value
planted to grapes than as grazing pasture.
“Dad wanted to diversify and has also loved
wine,” Scott says. They decided on Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay to fit the cool and
foggy climate, and Steve planted two acres
back in 1990.
A little space was carved out to make a
small tasting room that has since expanded.
“Lots of folks are into agritourism,” Scott
explains. We take them on tours of the
dairy, through the vineyards and winery.
Some just enjoy sitting on the porch
overlooking the foggy wetlands, watching the
egrets and other waterfowl, and enjoying a
breakfast of local products.
Scott started helping his father in the
vineyard; he had always loved gardening as a
kid. One day his father was watching him in
the vineyard, and asked, “What are you so
happy about?” Scott knew he had the wine
bug. Everyone agreed and Scott’s wife
encouraged him too, saying “you’re not happy
in your work; construction just pays the
bills.”
So Scott enrolled in the Viticulture
Program at the Santa Rosa Junior College,
taking 20 units each semester so he could
finish the two-year Certificate in one year.
He credits Rich Thomas with helping him to
streamline the process. Scott said that he
wasn’t a good student in high school, yet at
the Junior College he made the Dean’s List.
The practical aspects of the program on the
Shone Farm really “set the hook,” as Scott
says.
Rich hooked him up with Fred Peterson who
was a Vineyard Manager with Hambrecht
Vineyards at that time. They were making
small batches of wine to show the quality of
their fruit. Fred told Scott, “I have
nothing for you. You can be temporary,
seasonal fruit sampler.” Yet Scott hung in
there and got more and more jobs and tasks
in the cellar. “It was a valuable
experience,” he says, “I learned that you
can do it on a shoestring since ‘less is
more’ in winemaking. I can make it in the
bathtub!”
Eventually Scott was managing the
vineyards for Bradford Mountain, working
with Richard Mansfield. On the weekends he
would help his Dad make wine at Point Reyes.
In his wine business classes at the
Junior College Scott learned about brand
building and put that to use in the family
business. “People know Point Reyes,” he told
me, “and they know the lighthouse. We etched
that logo into their minds,” speaking of the
lighthouse on their label. Scott’s father
said that even if we sold a bottle to every
1000th visitor, we couldn’t keep up.
Four years ago, in 2001 he took the
plunge and the pay cut to work fulltime on
the family business. It allowed his father
to transition from much of the physical work
to more of the schmoozing in the tasting
room, which Scott says he does so well. “He
loves to talk to the people and tell the
story,” Scott says proudly.
There’s a good synergy between the Bed &
Breakfast and the winery; the Inn’s
customers buy wine and customers in the
tasting room get to peak into the B&B when
it’s not full. Most of their marketing is
word of mouth.
Production is still quite small at
1000-1500 cases of sparkling. In some years
they make still wine from a portion of the
Pinot Noir. In 2000 it was just one barrel.
In 2002, he and his dad agreed to “roll the
bones” and go for a still Pinot again,
putting up the bird netting. His stepmother
prefers to stick by the sparkling production
that is more of a sure thing as the grapes
are harvested early. Their gamble was
rewarded however and the grapes got ripe
enough to pick on November 11.
They have a wine club where members get
first crack at the new releases. 90% of
their sales are made in the tasting room.
Scott says they can’t afford the big cuts
from the three-tier system. Though lots of
restaurants want to sell their sparkling,
Point Reyes limits their discounts to 15%
off retail for the restaurants that resell
their wine. Their strategy has worked,
preserving their profitability and
developing close relationships with a few
key restaurants, mostly in the Point Reyes
area.
They have only five acres planted on
their estate. Yields are merely one ton per
acre. He says they couldn’t make it as
growers and benefit by converting their crop
to something with added value.
Scott doesn’t want to grow over three to
five thousand cases per year. He prefers not
to get any bigger than what they can do
themselves. Friends and family help with the
bottling. “My kids actually know what their
daddy does,” Scott says proudly. It’s a
tight-knit operation, where his father,
stepmother, wife and children all play a
part.
Since 1996 they have also made Cabernet
from a 35-year-old vineyard in a hot spot in
Terre Linda, called Quail Hill.
Their 1992 North Coast Late Disgorged
Sparkling Brut, $40 won Gold Best of Class
at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine
Competition. Scott says, “I was living in a
dream for months after that. We were beaming
the whole day at the tasting at Fort Mason.”
Scott and I tasted this bubbly and it truly
is spectacular, with fresh apple flavors and
good acidity. The ten years en triage
developed biscuit notes and a creamy
mouthfeel.
Scott also makes a show-stopping dessert
Viognier. The 2001 Late Harvest Viognier,
$17 for a 375ml bottle, is brimming with
ripe peaches and dried apricots. You get a
sense of caramel and sweetness without being
cloying. Very fresh! Scott calls it the
“sweet tooth satisfier.”
Point Reyes Vineyards is located just a
few miles up Highway 1 from Point Reyes
Station. They’re typically open Friday
through Monday, and just on the weekends in
the winter, as well as some holidays. Stop
by to enjoy the wine and the hospitality on
your next trip to the lighthouse.
|
